Native Planting

• Using Native Plants
• Planning the Site
• Preparing the Site
• Obtaining Plants
• Planting Native Plants

USING NATIVE PLANTS

Your monthly water bill last summer was in the triple digits? You went on vacation for two weeks and when you returned every plant in your yard looked brown and dry? You have moved to Texas from another state and are surprised to see folks out digging in their yards in February ­ and in November? Then, this is the guide for you. 

Native plants, and for us that means those whose origins appear to have been in the hot, thirsty states of Texas, Arizona, or New Mexico, have become increasingly popular in Central Texas during the past twenty years.  Advantages which gardeners claim for these plants are:

• Growing seasons adapted to Texas's climate extremes
• A hardiness that tolerates the erratic rainfall patterns of Central Texas
• Ability to thrive in Texas soils and resistance to local insect pests, thus requiring less chemical pesticide
• Appearance of "fitting in" with the larger landscapes of the areas in which they are placed
• Attraction of butterflies, birds, and small mammals
  

With so many positive features to their credit, why aren't these plants featured in every yard on your block? Natives also have characteristics which make some folks reluctant to include them in landscaping projects:

• Not all native plants are right for every location.  Texas climate and soil conditions range widely in terms of moisture and nutrients.  Just being a native plant is not enough.  Each plant must be evaluated for the location in which it is to be placed.  Plants that are hardy in a natural setting may struggle in a well-groomed back yard. 
  
• While there are a number of cultivated native plants with broad appeal, species which have been marketed commercially for just a few years pose special problems for nurseries.  The extra effort needed to acquire these plants and to grow and maintain them in greenhouses sometimes translates into higher prices when customers want to try something different. 
  

Each of these objections can be overcome.  Good advice from plant authorities can guide you to the natives suited to your location.  Higher prices for less common natives may be offset by savings in water or time. 

PLANNING FOR YOUR SITE

Once you have identified a number of attractive plants, there are several guidelines to follow when selecting among them and choosing the final design for your landscape.

• How and when does the sun strike your site?
• Can the soil support the plants you have planned for it?
• If not, what should you do to amend it?
• Does your design allow for water to drain or be stored as needed by your plants?
• Do your chosen plants look like they "belong" with each other, with the terrain, and with the buildings on it?

• Do you have enough time to care for the garden you have designed?
• Or will you become annoyed at the amount of effort involved?
• Does the layout complement the activities which you and your family wish to pursue in this space?
• Would you like to grow veggies, attract butterflies, raise flowers for cutting, have a place to play croquet?
• Do you plan to add a tool shed, an arbor, a swing set or a pool to your garden environment?

• At what time(s) of year does each provide color or texture to the landscape? (Because many natives do not have showy flowers, texture is very important.)
• Do their colors complement each other?
• Do nearby plants have similar nutrient and water requirements?
• How large will the plants grow?
• Will they crowd or shade others nearby?
• What is their life span?
• Will the shade from one plant protect or inhibit another? What is the cost of each plant in money, maintenance time, and water?
• Are you willing to pay?

Keep a record of the answers you find to these questions. Use the information you gather to sketch out a plan of your current site and mark on it the plants and features you wish to add.

PREPARING YOUR SITE

SOIL

The soil that typifies the eastern part of Central Texas is often described as "black waxy" - and has given the name Blackland Prairie to this area. It is a heavy, dark clay that expands or shrinks depending on its moisture content. A negative feature of this otherwise productive soil is that the cotton root rot pathogen is endemic to it, and successful gardeners must use plants which are not affected by this disease. Another feature of clay-like soil is its poor drainage. In the western part of Central Texas, on the other hand, the soil is a sandy loam, often shallow, dark, and gravelly.

In many parts of Central Texas a substratum of caliche is also present in the soil. This hard, limestone substance forms a barrier from one to several inches thick which prevents plant roots from reaching needed ground water. Where present, it creates an alkali or "sweet" soil which stunts those plants which require a very acid environment. Even native plants find these conditions a bit much.

If you are unsure about the nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus content of the soil in your garden, county extension agents can provide you with information. You may also order a kit from your county agent with instructions for taking a soil sample. This sample can be shipped to the Extension Soil, Water, and Forage Testing Laboratory at Texas A&M University for evaluation at a small fee.

Contact:

Central Texas County Extension Agents.

MOISTURE

If Central Texas soil offers some challenges to gardeners, our climate offers even more. Located in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Number 8, the average annual rainfall of 35 inches and hot dry summers of Bell County are typical for Central Texas. More importantly, rainfall amounts in Central Texas vary widely in each season from year to year making it difficult to anticipate which plants will be successful.

COMPOST AND MULCH

The most efficient and environment-friendly method of overcoming these soil and climate characteristics is a conscientious yearly program of composting and mulching. By allowing plant materials to decompose (composting) and then returning them to the garden we increase the availability of microbes, minerals, and organic matter, and we improve the soil's ability both to drain and to hold water.

The Texas Agricultural Extension Service has developed a manual, Composting and Mulching, A Guide to Managing Organic Landscape Refuse, which provides instructions for developing your own program. Request Extension Horticulture Publication TAEX 393-C from your county agent. The extension service may also advise you if your garden contains native species that do not flourish in an amended soil.

By placing uncomposted plant clippings on top of the soil as a protective covering in garden beds and at the bases of trees and shrubs (mulching), we can reduce the growth of weeds, help the soil to retain water, and protect the soil against erratic temperature extremes. Many leaves and twigs fall naturally on the garden. Left alone they provide an instant mulch. Even pulled weeds can be used if the seeds have not set.

Brazos River Authority

In addition to the material which you gather from your own yard, you can purchase other organic materials for amending the soil. One such product is TRI-GRO Compost. It is made from the organic material removed from waste water during the treatment process. This material, produced locally by the Brazos River Authority, is further treated to reduce odor, pathogens, and weed seed. It provides essential micronutrients not found in most commercial fertilizers. Although not recommended for vegetable gardens, it is suitable for use on lawns, flower gardens, and other home landscaping projects. The BRA offers a chart outlining the amount of compost needed for various applications.

TRI-GRO Mulch is made from used wood products, brush, and scrap lumber which have been ground and screened to provide a safe, attractive product. An additional benefit in using this product is that you support recycling and help save space in area landfills.

Contact:

Brazos River Authority
2405 East 6th
Belton TX 76513

Directions:

Take FM 93 one mile east of Belton. Look for the BRA sign. The compost loading schedule is Wednesday and Friday from 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and Saturday from 7:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

City of Killeen

Killeen will provide shredded wood chips at no charge to anyone wishing to load and haul them away. This material makes an excellent top dressing.

Contact:

Scale House

Directions:

To reach the transfer station, take Highway 195 six miles south of the Killeen city limits toward Florence. Hours are Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; Wednesday and Saturday, 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

XERISCAPING

A xeriscape features the use of plants with minimal moisture requirements. The Xeriscape concept is "an attempt to begin the process of change to decrease the demand for water in the landscape." The purpose is to "focus attention on the amount of water used and publicize ways to reduce it without sacrificing quality of surroundings." Xeriscaping is quality landscaping that conserves water and protects the environment. It relies on seven principles:

• development of a landscape plan and design
• knowledge of soil composition
• use of practical turf areas
• selection of appropriate plants for each area
• efficient use of irrigation principles
• use of mulch
• knowledge of maintenance requirements before plant selection
  

The objective of Xeriscape is to utilize plants and soils with the least possible amount of chemical additives, irrigation, and maintenance. Xeriscaping focuses on plants that are well adapted to an area without regard for native or non-native status, although native species are the natural choice.

The City of Austin has developed an excellent publication, Xeriscape: Quality Landscaping that Conserves Water and Protects the Environment. It includes lists of trees, shrubs, ground covers, perennials, and grasses suitable for dry areas. The height and appealing features of each plant are detailed. The city sponsors a "Xeriscape Garden Tour" each fall.

Contact:

The Lower Colorado River Authority
Water Efficiency Department
PO Box 220
Austin TX 78767

(800) 776-5272

OBTAINING YOUR PLANTS

FROM THE WILD

The method of collection may be as simple as harvesting dry seed heads from a patch of flowers you have tagged during their blooming season or as uncertain as removing dormant perennials from their natural site. Consider where these plants have occurred in nature and attempt to replicate the environment of the natural habitat. This will increase greatly the chances of survival for the plant!

There are any number of methods for collecting from the wild. Each method should be considered carefully prior to removing plant material from the wild. Many native plants are protected by state and federal laws and regulations. The reason these laws are in place is to ensure the survival of the species. Should one species become overly harvested by "pirates", we run the risk of losing it. Be certain that the species you wish to move or harvest is on private property and that you have the permission of land owners prior to removing any plant material.

FROM A NURSERY

Contact the nursery with which you usually do business, or one recommended by friends. Explain your interest in natives. Ask for an evaluation of the plant list and landscape designs you have developed. The local nursery has the advantage of knowing your neighborhood, its soils and moisture requirements and can help you establish basic, well-tested natives that will be the backbone of your design.

If you find the local nursery does not share your interest in native plants, or that their selection is limited, use the nursery lists in the Native Plant Society of Texas NEWS to find nurseries more sympathetic with your plans.

MOVING PLANTS TO A NEW LOCATION

Generally seeds can be gathered when they are well filled. If they are ripe, seeds will fall into your hand or into a container when you shake the plant. Plant in either fall or spring according to the requirements of the plant.

A young healthy shrub or tree should be prepared for transplanting by digging a root pruning trench in the early autumn. The following winter or early spring, the tree can be dug on a line outside of -or farther from the trunk than- the original trench. Older more established trees require the spading of a partial pruning trench at three points around the tree in the first autumn, completion of this trench in the second autumn, and finally the digging up of the tree in the second spring, while still dormant. Dig the bare roots of deciduous trees. Protect evergreens by digging a soil ball around the roots and wrapping them in burlap. Top growth must be thinned by at least one half so that it does not tax the smaller root system. Provide supports for trees until new roots are established.

PLANTING AND MAINTAINING

ORNAMENTAL TREES

When W. Goodrich Jones came to Temple in 1888 he reported that there was not one tree in the city. Early photos support his claim. He started a tree - planting campaign which ultimately gained him the nickname "Hackberry Jones" in honor of the species he planted most often. Fortunately we have found a wider array of trees from around the southwest which thrive in Central Texas.

Some native species suitable for planting include:

SHRUBS

Some of our most attractive shrubbery is provided by native plants. Welcome the following into your garden:

MAINTENANCE OF TREES AND SHRUBS

In addition to potential height, each tree and shrub should be evaluated for rate of growth, appearance of flowers, fruit and foliage. Consider also sun, soil, and water requirements, type of maintenance required, and the ability of the tree to attract wildlife to your garden. The Native Plant Society of Texas publication, Texas Natives; Ornamental Trees, or Neil Sperry's Complete Guide to Texas Gardening will provide this information.

Plant trees and shrubs at the same depth as they were situated in the container. Fill the hole with a mixture of existing soil and composted material. Generally speaking, maintenance on native species is simpler and less time consuming than on hybrids. If a native tree or shrub is planted in the autumn, compost should be added at the initial planting. The plant should be redressed with composted material annually.

Trees and shrubs should be dressed with compost each spring and should be mulched during the hot months of summer. Natives and hybrids require the same water treatments during the first year of growth.The difference comes in the long investment with natives. Once established, these plants require lower levels of water and no more than a basic trimming in the cold months. A caution on trimming away dead branches without close examination: you may be removing next year's butterflies!

Few insects bother natives. However, should you discover invasive insect activity within a concentrated area of your landscape, try placing bird seed or small kernels of deer corn around the infestation. The mockingbirds will appreciate such a signpost directing them to their dinner.

FLOWERING PERENNIALS

Add flourishes of color to your garden with flowering perennials. Be certain to follow directions for sun/shade and water requirements. Generally, starting a garden from small plants, rather than seed, is a more successful practice for the novice gardener. The foliage of some desirable native plants is sometimes mistaken for that of weeds in the early spring as it is difficult to distinguish between the two before flowering occurs.

Among the most appealing natives - and those most easy to cultivate are:

MAINTENANCE OF PERENNIALS

The perennials, especially salvias, appreciate light composting in the spring for longer bloom. Trim woody perennials back while dormant, near the beginning of February; herbaceous plants at the end of February. Both types of plants benefit from removal of the flowers at the end of May, before seed has set; and again at the end of July. Supplemental watering may be necessary for continual summer bloom. We all tend to wilt in the hot summer months! For less maintenance, perennials can be cut back in late July or early August to give them and the gardener a rest. They will respond with fresh growth and flowers with the onset of fall rains.

Plants should be divided in the fall and watered well for several days until any chance of shock has passed. This practice will keep plants robust and prevent them from overwhelming the garden. However, natives, once established, do not require water for life and the bloom will ordinarily return with the fall rains. Plants which have grown for five or more years should be evaluated each fall to determine if they are sufficiently vigorous to last another season.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

In selecting ornamental grasses for your landscaping projects you should consider plant height and texture. You should also determine whether you need a summer grass requiring - and tolerating - lots of sunshine or a winter grass green year round and able to grow in the shade.

MAINTENANCE OF NATIVE GRASSES

Native grasses, generally speaking, should be treated the same as perennials. Summer grasses should be cut down and the top growth removed during February or March. Winter grasses should be cut back or mowed in August or September. A rule of thumb suggests that if the mature height of the grass is twelve inches or less, it should be cut back to two inches. Plants from one to three feet high should be cut back to seven inches, and those over three feet should be trimmed to ten inches. Division on an every other year basis will ensure that there are plenty of new plants for new friends and neighbors.

Caution for Maintenance of All Plants

The Texas climate takes us to temperature extremes within short periods of time. Ensure that plants are well watered during the winter. Lack of water, not severe cold, is the greatest killer of plants in our area. Plants not adapted to Zone 8 are not easily maintained during severe cold spells. Mulching in the fall will help, but not planting them saves time, money, and frustration!